发信人: FancyYou (DongAo), 信区: outdoor
标  题: Hand and Foot Care 手和脚的护理（转自岩蜥）
发信站: 饮水思源 (2013年08月08日10:42:26 星期四)

http://www.rock-lizard.org/bbs/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=12496
The following article is based on text from the book Sport CLIMBING + published by Rockfax. This article version was written by Adrian Berry.
下面的文章源于Rockfax出版的Sport CLIMBING +一书。文章的原始作者是Adrian Berry。

The abrasive nature of the rock combined with the moisture-absorbing properties of chalk will dry your skin out. When your skin is dry it is more prone to wear and cuts. As soon as you finish climbing, wash your hands and use a skin moisturiser as often as possible. Creams with healing vitamin E and a moisturiser can be be bought at any chemist. The best creams contain Shea butter. Popular are CLIMB ON's creams and bars, SYPELAND's Climbers' Balm and PALMER'S Cocoa butter.
岩石的摩蚀性加上镁粉的吸水性会让你的皮肤变干。当你的皮肤干燥时会更容易脱皮或开裂。当你结束攀爬后尽快洗手及经常使用保湿润肤露。含有可加快伤口愈合的维生素E的乳霜或保湿润肤露可以在任何药店里买到。好的乳霜都含有牛油果成分。较为流行的是Climb on的cream、bar，Sypeland的Climber’s Balm还有Palmer的Cocoa butter。

Cuts and flappers
皮肤切口和撕裂

Minor cuts should be cleaned and in most cases covered with finger tape. If you do continue climbing, the cut may open up and take even longer to heal. Keeping the cut moisturised will help prevent it cracking if you climb, though it is often better to take a rest day and await healing.
细小的切口应该先清理干净，一般要用胶带把伤口盖住。如果你坚持攀爬，切口可能会开裂，这就需要更多的时间才能愈合。要攀爬的话，保持切口湿润会有助防止开裂，虽说最好是可以休息一天等待它愈合。

Flappers (or avulsions) are a more serious proposition. This is where a thick flap of skin rips usually due to much pressure on a sharp hold, quite often when it is cold and your skin isn't as sensitive. The end result is a lot of blood, a gaping hole and a flap of skin that makes further climbing impossible. In the old days an assortment of remedies were used to enable us to continue climbing, including the use of superglue (a carcinogen) to stick the flapper back. The risk of infection is great with a deep flapper, so it is best to wash with disinfectant, cover in gauze and await healing.
皮肤撕裂是更严重的情况。很厚的一块皮肤被撕裂通常是由于在锋利的手点上施加了很大的压力，这在天冷你的皮肤触感较低时经常发生。后果是流很多的血，一个很深的洞还有一大块皮肤，这样你几乎不能再继续攀爬了。在很久以前我们用各种各样的土方法来确保我们继续下去，包括像用强力胶(致癌)把掉的皮粘回去。皮肤撕裂很有可能导致感染，所以最好用消毒液清洗，用纱布包扎然后等待愈合。

Calluses
茧

As you climb you put repeated pressure and friction on the skin of your fingers. The skin responds by growing areas of thickened skin or calluses. Calluses are quite natural, but heavily callused skin is more prone to flappers. Treat it by filing down the callus then moisturising. The best tool for filing down your skin is a sanding block (a block of foam covered in fine sandpaper).
在攀爬中你会不断地压和摩擦手指皮肤。所以对应位置的皮肤会变厚或者出茧。有茧很正常，但厚茧会导致皮肤撕裂。把茧磨掉然后保湿。磨茧的最好工具是磨块(一块泡沫外面包着砂纸)。

Worn skin
脱皮

A large volume of climbing, especially on rough rock, will remove layers of skin from your tips until they are sore, sweat easily and even bleed. Typically, worn skin will leave an abrupt 'step' between skin layers, this will tend to roll if you climb on it, making things worse. Treat this skin step by filing it down so that there is no edge to catch and moisturise when you are not climbing.
大量的攀爬，特别是在粗糙的石头上，会磨掉你指尖的皮直到它们红肿、易汗甚至流血。通常来说，脱皮时皮肤各层之间会有断断续续的’台阶’，这往往会在你攀爬中卷起，让事情变得更坏。把这些皮肤台阶磨掉，确保没有边界，还有在你不攀爬的时候注意保湿。

Taping
缠胶带

If you must climb with broken or worn skin, use finger tape to cover the injury whilst climbing. The trick is to ensure your tape doesn't slide off. Use one piece of tape along the front and back of the length of your finger, then with a very thin length of tape, encircle your finger with overlapping turns. If you work outwards along your finger, the edges of the tape can catch on the rock, giving you a bit more 'stick' (cheating)! Wrapping the other way gives less stick, but the tape will stay on much longer so choose this for long or multi-pitch routes.
如果你一定要带着伤口或脱皮攀爬，那就用胶带盖住伤口。要诀是要保证你的胶带不会滑落。用一条胶带沿着纵向盖住手指的正面和背面，然后用另一条长细的胶带，绕着手指重复转圈。如果你的手指往外抽，胶带的边缘会卡住岩石，给你一些些额外的粘力(作弊哈)！用别的办法缠胶带不会那么粘，但这样缠的话胶带能坚持更久所以在长线或者多段线路上这么做吧。

Foot care
脚部护理

The first step in looking after your feet is getting a well-fitting pair of climbing shoes . High-performance climbing shoes are very anatomical, with curved and asymmetric soles and rands that pull. While they do need to be snug, if you get a pair that is too tight they will impede your performance and also encourage, calluses, bunions and corns.
对脚的关爱第一步是找双合脚的攀岩鞋。高性能的攀岩鞋通常都很结构化，有弧形不对称的鞋底和鞋边。虽说它们需要贴脚，但如果你穿着一双过紧的鞋也会影响你的发挥，同时会导致长茧、拇指囊肿还有鸡眼。

Fitting climbing shoes
合适的攀岩鞋

    Cut your toe nails straight and short - but not too short.
    Make sure the fit is comfortable and snug, but not overtight.
    Manufacturers foot lasts vary, some are narrow at the heel or at the toe, some have a small volume compared to others. Try on several brands and models until you find the right fit. If you are a male with a narrow foot try a woman's shoe for fit.
    Unlined shoes will stretch up to a full size and can be fitted tighter than lined shoes which will hardly stretch at all.
    把你的脚趾甲剪短剪整齐 - 但不要太短。
    合适是指穿着舒服和贴脚，而不是过紧。
    造鞋商的谢楦五花八门，有些脚跟窄有些脚尖窄，有些会比其它的号要小。尽可能试穿不同品牌的不同型号直到你找到最合脚的。如果你是窄脚男那你可以试一下女号。
    无衬里的鞋比较容易撑大也更贴脚，相比有衬里的鞋几乎没法撑。


To avoid the smelly-rock-shoe syndrome and prolong the life of your shoe, only wear climbing shoes when actually climbing.
Take a pair of flip-flops to wear between routes. This will rest and air your feet.
要避免岩鞋发臭和延长鞋的寿命，只在攀爬的时候才穿岩鞋。带上一双人字拖在休息时穿。让你的脚放松和透气。

Store your shoes in a dry airy place to dry out. Consider placing a natural aromatic cedar block in them which absorbs moisture and unpleasant odours and contains a natural fungicide.
将鞋放在干燥通风的地方晾干。可以放一块天然雪松香在鞋里，除湿及吸臭还杀菌。

Like callused hands, feet also benefit from application of a moisturising cream and sanding down over callused areas on a regular basis.
和手茧一样，保湿霜和磨掉过厚的茧对脚部也有好处。

Preventing athlete's foot
预防香港脚

Many people carry fungus on their skin, however, it will only flourish to the point of causing athlete's foot if conditions are right. The fungus grows best in moist, damp, dark places with poor ventilation, i.e. in your climbing shoes.
很多人的皮肤上都携带着真菌，但是，只有条件合适的情况下它才会演变成香港脚。真菌在阴暗潮湿不通风的环境下最易繁殖，也就是你的攀岩鞋。

    In addition to only wearing your shoes when on a route also:
    Wash your feet daily and dry them thoroughly afterwards.
    Go barefoot outdoors when possible.
    Wear cotton socks and change them often if they get damp.
    Use a good quality foot powder.
    除了只在攀爬时才穿攀岩鞋之外：
    每天洗脚并仔细擦干。
    在户外如果条件允许就赤着脚。
    选择棉质的袜子，平时勤换，特别是袜子受潮后。
    用质量好的足粉。
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※ 来源:·饮水思源 bbs.sjtu.edu.cn·[FROM: 112.65.184.195]

※ 修改:·FancyYou 于 2013年08月08日10:44:45 修改本文·[FROM: 112.65.184.195]