发信人: crazycams(嗡嗡嗡), 信区: outdoor
标 题: 攀冰不是攀岩（译文）【转自8264论坛】
发信站: 饮水思源 (2016年03月07日10:24:49 星期一)
今年双桥沟里出现了好几起攀冰的冲坠事故，最严重的便是北京冰友十四的意外。转载这
篇Will Gad和Jeffrey Butler合著的文章，希望个人和协会在以后的攀冰活动中更加注意
安全。快乐攀登，安全攀登，量力而行。
先附上译文，然后是原文，感谢默默奉献的翻译同学。
【攀冰不是攀岩】
翻译 芽子
Will Gadd 在看到这个视频后发表了如下的帖子：请大家在发表评论的时候说些有
建设性的话，同时也请注意用词的文明。观众在下面的回帖中加入了很多有用的信息，比
如关于安全带和GiGi的信息，但还是让我们更加关注攀冰实际操作中的问题，而不是攻击
短片中的攀冰者和拍摄者吧。我自己在短片中确实做了不少错误操作，我们所有人在影片
中都犯了错误，但我们也从中学到了东西，并希望做的更好。谢谢！
帖子中的两个截屏画面是关于安全带没有反扣，Kong的GiGi保护器没有被正确使用
的画面。看到了安全带和保护器的使用时我也是惊呆了，我可 不会花钱去买短距离冲坠
都搞不定的装备上。谢谢下面的评论能够指出安全带和GiGi的问题，在没有人指出前我是
一点都没意识到，想起来还挺后怕的......——Jeffrey Butler
短片《冲坠》
我意识到的最大的一个问题就是在开始接触攀冰初期，攀冰者会向攀岩一样地去进
行攀冰运动。这种想法是完全不对的，而且还会导致本可避免的意外。最近，我的一个朋
友发给了我一个视频链接，是关于一段在新罕布什尔州名字叫做Dracula的典型WI4攀冰路
线上发生的冲坠。先锋胳膊酸胀，勉强地放置冰锥，然后发生了冲坠。视频的3分28秒处，
发生了意外，但整个意外早在这之前就已经有了种种迹象。在这里，我将挑出几个视频中
的非常严重的错误。不幸的是，这些错误都很的常见，而且也都是不该犯的。
好在，这段视频可以在QQ视频上找到，你可以加载整段视频后在时间线上拖拽按钮
进行观看。这段视频并非像影片讲述者暗示的那样，主题是关于“改变”。视频中，我能
看到的、听到的“改变”微乎其微，而更多看到的是在先锋攀登时候犯下的常见错误，而
这些意外完全是可以避免的。此外在接下来的镜头中，也没有看到它对其他攀登者有任何
启示作用。
第一个我想指出的，同时也是首要的错误，那就是在影片的结尾处，14分20秒的地方，保
护员说“冲坠是很常见的，也应该是可预见的。” 不，完全错了。在过去三十年的攀冰生
涯中，我只制动过一次攀冰中发生的先锋冲坠，而自己从来没有发生过任何先锋冲坠。与
我一起攀冰的大多数伙伴们也都是如此；只有少数几个人在刚开始攀冰的时候发生过1-2次
攀冰冲坠，然后就发现在攀冰时发生冲坠真的是太糟糕了。虽然极少数时候，也有一些意
外的事情发生，但这种事情屈指可数。我知道的有三个人在攀冰的时候冲坠了很短的距离
，就导致脚踝骨折打了钢钉或更糟。所以，冲坠是不常见的，而且是不应该被“预见”的
。这一点一定要重新认识。
在视频2分钟的位置，保护员的位置很明显是落冰会砸到的地方。对于这个问题，视
频中的保护员决定留有足够的绳子，通过移动位置来避免被落冰砸到。因为“如果我被碎
冰砸到了，我还是称职的保护员吗？”，这句话可不是我编出来的。而更好的解决方法则
应该是彻底让保护员不在路线的正下方。就可以了。截至现在，我只记得有两次攀冰我不
能确保保护员的安全（讽刺的是，其中一次就是和Mark Twight一起攀冰），而且两次都把
保护点放置在了很不靠谱的地方（真对不起你，Dornian）。所以，虽然你不顾一切地缩短
了攀爬的绳距，但是如果你将保护员至于会被冰砸到的危险境地，那也是愚蠢至极的。视
频的3分20秒，就连拍视频的家伙也是站在落冰的下方。幸好Dracula只是一条单段的攀冰
线路。一定不要站在了线路的正下方！如果说攀冰的第一法则就是不要冲坠，那么攀冰的
第二法则就一定是“不要站在会被落冰砸到地方。” 如果觉得落冰是不常发生的，这就是
攀岩思维。要事先假设在攀冰的过程中会有很多落冰，然后对此作出计划和应对。
视频里还有很多攀冰者挥镐的镜头。这虽然这听起来很刺耳，但我还是有必要说句
实话：这位攀冰者根本就不够资格进行先锋攀冰。他的打镐都很差（3分17秒就是一个坏镐
的最好例子，你能看到他拉起自己的时候冰镐在摆动），他的脚法也很糟，所以我都很纳
闷他居然到了这个时候才发生冲坠。我说这些并没有任何侮辱的意思，但我担心说得太委
婉对其后面的所作所为起不到作用。
视频中说“是的，我现在对装备更有信心了，这也给了我放置更多保护的理由。”
这句话在很多层面来说也都是错误的，首先它没有抓住攀冰的要领，不冲坠才是攀冰的关
键，而不是放置保护。因为放置足够的保护，当意外发生的时候没有挂掉（视频中，他确
实放了足够的保护），然后你就会想“看啊，保护真管用，太好了，我现在可以更多地发
生冲坠了！”这种想法完全就是错误的。正确的想法应该是，“该死，我冲坠了，要不是
这么幸运，我可能就挂了，我需要重新思考我攀冰的方法。”
我想知道视频中8分50秒到9分20秒左右被画外音覆盖的其他攀冰者说话的内容。我觉得他
们可能在说“老兄，应该打镐再打结实点嘛，应该像这样。应该这样把牛尾扣在冰镐的上
孔或下孔里，这样就不会差点被摔死了。”这些都是很基础的技术，攀冰者都应该知道，
但显然他们不知道。
视频里的攀冰者应该在发生冲坠之前就停止了攀爬了。攀岩的时候，如果你的胳膊酸胀还
是可以继续进行攀爬的，甚至还可以一直爬到冲坠。事实上，攀岩就是要经常达到这个临
界点的。但在攀冰的时候，还攀爬到胳膊特别酸胀就很有问题了，这样发生冲坠的可能性
就非常之高了。视频中的这个哥们轻则可能会脚踝骨折，重则可能下半辈子瘫痪，或者直
接就没命了。如果你在攀冰的时候，觉得胳膊非常的酸胀，就应该按照视频9分钟时候那个
攀冰者建议的去做：先把自己扣在冰镐上，然后打一颗冰锥。可以先在有指导的情况下这
样练习，这样可以使你更加安心。攀冰这么多年，在这种情况下，我看到过有人拧冰锥的
时候只拧进去一点，也看见过有人在冰锥旁边打镐，但就是没看见过…（累了也不打镐拧
锥休息的）。在放置冰锥的时候发生冲坠是常见的一种冲坠，但这种冲坠根本就是可以避
免的。所以，在胳膊非常酸胀的时候就应该停止攀爬了，然后好好拧进一颗锥，重新调整
一下，如果胳膊真的酸胀得厉害无法完成这段绳距，就干脆降下来。或者，再向上爬1.5米
，再放置一根冰锥然后把自己吊在那里休息；于我来说，相较于胳膊酸胀还继续攀爬到冲
坠的攀冰者我更敬重那些勇于退下的攀冰者。如果你的胳膊已经酸胀，请停下来重新调整
，没有什么线路是值得用受伤来换取的。
那么我们要怎样做才能避免这样的意外发生呢？
--多进行顶绳攀爬。一趟一趟地爬。练习放置冰锥，穿冰爪爬，不穿冰爪爬，练习钩挂技
术等。我打赌这名攀冰者从初学到现在，所攀的绳距不超过30个。30米的线路，至少攀上
150回才能开始对冰有一点点感觉。
--练习将自己挂入冰镐，练习放置冰锥。一般来说，这种情况需要安全带上有两把快挂，
或者安全带的保护环上有一根扁带。有很多种方法，一定要多加练习。
攀冰中我见过的最大问题就是很少有人做健身。大多数的攀冰者都是以攀登者（攀
岩）的方式开始这项运动的。
最后，还有一个比较关键的问题，这里不做过多的批评，但大家可以认真思考一下
。如果我要是这样摔下来，请千万不要把我大头朝下地放到地面。影片9分50秒的时候，攀
冰者成倒置的体态被放下来。再说明一下，这种时候非常地关键，以这样的速度和冲击力
摔下来，我严重怀疑攀登者的脊椎会受伤......但在整个视频中对这点没做任何评论。很
幸运的是，在事情发生的时候刚好有一名攀岩者是急诊医生——如果情况更糟的话，攀冰
者可能面对的就是生或死不同的结果了。
好了，大概就是这些，还有很多其他的问题，但是上述的问题对我来说是最为重要
的。我很乐意为视频中的攀冰者和拍摄视频的哥们提供一天免费的培训，借此来增强他们
攀冰的技术和方法；我这样语出不逊并没有针对某个攀冰者的意思，他们只是拍了个视频
而已，但如果运气好的话，我的这篇文章将会就这些攀冰中常见的错误在读者中引起更广
泛的思考。
【Ice Climbing is NOT Rock Climbing】
Jeffrey Butler & Will Gadd
Will Gadd note after the below was posted: Please keep the comments somewhat c
ivil and constructive. There is a lot of good information (harness, gi gi) get
ting added, let’s focus–as most people are–on what can be done differently
rather than attacking either the climbers or the video effort. Just for refere
nce, I’ve personally made a lot of the errors in the video, we all have, the
idea is to learn and do better, thanks.
And the two screen capture pictures are of the BD Bod harness that’s not doub
led back (you can tell because you can see the two silver pieces, shouldn’t b
e able to see ‘em both!) and the Kong Gi Gi, which is getting used totally in
appropriately. That the harness and the belay both held is pretty amazing to m
e, I would not have put money on either system holding even a short fall. Than
ks to the comments section for noticing both, I didn’t until it was pointed o
ut, which kinda scares me…
Fall. from Jeffrey Butler on Vimeo.
One of the biggest problems I see in ice climbing starts with people approachi
ng ice climbing like they do rock climbing. That mindset is totally inappropri
ate, and leads to really avoidable accidents. A friend of mine recently sent m
e a link to a video shot Dracula, a one-pitch classic WI 4+ in New Hampshire.
The leader gets pumped, struggles to get a screw in, and falls. Skip to 3: 28
to see it go bad, but the whole thing starts to go bad way before that point.
I’m going to pick a few key points out of this video that are really serious
errors. These errors are unfortunately very common, and they shouldn’t be.
Fortunately this video is on Vimeo, where you can load the whole video up then
click and hold on the timeline bar below the video to move around the video e
asily. This video is not, as the narrator suggests, a film about “change.” I
see and hear very little about “change” in the film, what I see are common
errors leading to a completely avoidable accident, and not much mental switch
among the climbers in the follow-up footage.
The first and biggest error in the thinking of the climbers is expressed at th
e end of the film when the belayer says at 14:20, “Falling is very common, it
should be expected.” No, it isn’t. In 30 years of ice climbing I’ve caught
exactly one lead fall (Guy Lacelle of all people), and never fallen on lead.
Most of the people I climb with are the same; a few fell off once or maybe twi
ce early in their careers before figuring out it was a really bad idea… Very
occasionally things just go bad, but I can count those type of accidents on on
e hand. I know three people with fused ankles or worse from taking very short
falls on ice. Falling is not common and should not be “expected.” A major me
ntal reset is called for.
2:00 Apparently the belay is a in place subject to falling ice. The belayer de
cides the solution to this problem is to have enough slack in the system to mo
ve to avoid the falling ice because, “If I get knocked out by a piece of ice
what good am I as a belayer?” I’m not making that quote up. A better solutio
n would be to have the belayer not in the line of fire at all. Full stop. I ca
n only remember two belays ever (ironically, one with Mark Twight) where I cou
ld not protect the belayer from falling ice, and in retrospect I put the belay
in a shit place both times (sorry Mr. Dornian). Do shorter pitches, whatever
it takes, but having your belayer in any position where he could be hit by fal
ling ice is flat-out stupid or ignorant. Even the video guy is standing under
falling ice at 3:20; Dracula is a one-pitch route for god’s sake, move out of
the way! If the first rule of ice climbing is don’t fall off then surely the
second is, “Don’t stand where you can get hit with falling ice.” This is r
ock-climbing thinking, where it’s abnormal to have falling ice. It is a given
that a lot of ice will or can be falling down an ice climb, plan for it.
Lots of shots of the climber swinging tools, etc. This is going to sound harsh
, but there needs to be some reality interjected into this film: The climber h
ad absolutely no business being on lead on ice. His sticks were shit (3:17 is
a good example of a lousy stick, you can see his tool wobble as he pulls up),
his footwork is terrible, and I’m amazed he didn’t fall off earlier. I don’
t say that to be insulting, but because I suspect less-direct commentary would
be ineffective given the rest of what is said and done in the film.
Quote, “Yeah, I have great faith in the equipment now, and it gives me even m
ore reason to put pro in.” This is just wrong on so many levels, but first of
all it misses the entire point that ice climbing isn’t about the pro, it’s
about first not falling off. Have enough pro so when something really surprisi
ng happens you don’t die (and he did have enough pro in for that), but thinki
ng that, “Hey, the pro works, great, I can fall off more now!” is just wrong
. The thinking should be, “Damn, I fell off, and only through incredible luck
did I not completely fuck myself up for the rest of my life, I need to re-thi
nk my approach to ice climbing.”
I want to know what the climbers around 8:50 to 9:20 or so are saying under th
e voice-over. From my read of it they are saying, “Dude, get better fucking s
ticks into the ice, like this. And here’s how to clip into the pommel or lowe
r hole on your tool to so you don’t fall off and nearly die again.” These ar
e basic skills the climber should have known, and obviously didn’t.
The climber should have stopped way, way before he fell. In rock climbing it’
s often OK to climb deep into a pump, even to the point of falling. In fact, t
hat’s often the point in rock climbing. It is NOT ok to climb super-pumped on
ice, the consequences of a fall are simply too high. This guy could have been
paralyzed for life, broken both ankles, or died. If you’re getting super pum
ped on ice do what the other climbers suggest at 9:00: CLIP INTO YOUR TOOL and
put a screw in. Train doing this on a TR so you’re comfortable with it. I ha
ve seen a half-dozen screws over the years placed a little into the ice, and t
hen a tool beside the screw, but no climber… Falling off while placing a scre
w is a common way to fall, but totally needless. So, stop before you get super
pumped, put in a good screw, reset, maybe back off if you can’t climb the pi
tch without getting super pumped. Or, climb it in five-foot sections putting i
n a screw and hanging; I have FAR more respect for someone who doe that than g
ets pumped and falls off. If you’re super pumped stop, reset. No “free” pit
ch is worth getting injured for.
So what should we do to avoid this accident?
-Climb on toprope more. Many, many laps. Practice putting in screws, climbing
with and without crampons, hooking, making placements, etc. I’d bet this clim
ber had done less than 30 pitches total of ice in his life. At least 150 30M l
aps is the bare minimum to have any sort of understanding of ice.
-Practice clipping into a tool and putting screws in. This normally takes two
quickdraws on the harness, or a sling to the belay loop. Lots of ways to do it
, practice.
The big problems I see in ice climbing are seldom to do with fitness. Almost a
lways they start with the climber’s approach to the sport.
And finally, and this is an intense situation so it’s small criticism but som
ething to think about, if I fall off like that please don’t lower me head-fir
st back toward the ground. The climber’s legs kip over his head at about 9:50
. Again, it’s an intense situation, but I’d suspect a possible spinal injury
with that much force and speed… But a small criticism in the whole picture,
and the climber is very lucky to have an ER doc on hand–if the situation were
worse that could have made the difference between living and dying.
OK, that about sums it up, lots of other issues, but those are the main ones t
o me. I’d be happy to offer a free day of instruction with these climbers and
their video guy to improve their technique and approach to ice climbing; I do
n’t mean this to be harsh to the individual climbers at all, with any luck I
will have caused some thinking among a much wider readership as these errors a
re way too common, these guys just made a video…
--
其实攀岩就是一种生活，或近或远，或难或易，爱者自爱，无关名利你我
※ 来源:·饮水思源 bbs.sjtu.edu.cn·[FROM: 219.228.118.20]
※ 修改:·crazycams 于 2016年03月07日17:32:54 修改本文·[FROM: 219.228.118.20]
※ 修改:·crazycams 于 2016年03月07日17:33:15 修改本文·[FROM: 219.228.118.20]
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